Portland Trail & Chief Ouray Loop (Ouray, Colorado)

When we visit a new area, we spend time researching the best hikes. Our research usually starts with the AllTrails app, then continues by chatting with locals about trails we shouldn’t miss. The Portland Trail and Chief Ouray Loop immediately stood out because of its variety—wooded forests, a waterfall, epic mountain views, and an old miner’s cabin clinging to the hillside. The mix of natural beauty and history made this a hike we simply couldn’t pass up.

Hike Overview

This scenic 6.5-mile loop explores a rugged slice of the Uncompahgre National Forest just above the town of Ouray. The trail blends steep, challenging climbs with quieter forest stretches and wide-open ridgelines that showcase the San Juan Mountains in all their glory. Along the way, hikers encounter waterfalls, wildflowers, and remnants of Colorado’s mining past—including a weathered cabin that sparks the imagination.

Route Highlights

When we pulled into the empty trailhead, the clouds were already stacking over the San Juans, hinting at what was coming. Rain was in the forecast, but like most hikers who have waited too long to get here, we decided to roll the dice. With rain jackets stuffed into our packs, we started down the trail—downhill, which felt strange for a Colorado hike. Usually, it’s an uphill grind right from the parking lot, but this time the first half-mile eased us in through shady pine forest and damp earth that still held the scent of last night’s rain.

About twenty minutes later, the sky opened again—just a soft drizzle at first. We ducked under a big spruce tree, listening to the sound of raindrops pattering through the branches. The storm passed quickly, leaving that cool, clean smell that only happens in the mountains after a shower. We hiked on, following a narrow path that wound along a ridgeline overlooking the valley below.

Around the one-mile mark, the trees thinned and we got our first real view: the rugged cliffs across the valley, streaked with distant waterfalls tumbling down from the water sheds. The whole scene stopped us in our tracks. Moments like that—standing there in quiet awe, watching rain fade into mist across the canyon—are why we hike.

Trail Option

Soon we reached a junction where the Portland Trail met the Chief Ouray Loop, and without much debate, we turned right to make it a full loop. A couple miles later, we came to another fork. Turning left would have been the easy option, looping us back toward the parking lot—but the steep switchbacks to the right called our name. We knew we’d regret skipping the climb.

That section was no joke—tight, rocky, and relentlessly steep. We took our time, zigzagging up the mountain until finally, near mile three, the trail leveled out. The reward was immediate. Below us, the town of Ouray looked like a tiny toy village tucked into a sea of green. We dropped our packs, found a flat rock, and ate lunch with a view that felt almost unreal.

The Miner’s Cabin

After the climb, the trail mellowed out and traced the mountainside with wide-open views. I noticed an old wooden structure far across the slope, clinging to the edge of a cliff. From where we stood, there didn’t seem to be any trail leading to it—it just hovered there, weathered and stubborn, like it had been waiting a hundred years for someone to come see it again.

Eventually, the trail began to descend toward the sound of rushing water. We followed it to a waterfall that spilled over mossy rock into a shallow pool—a perfect spot to linger, cool off, and snap a few photos. That’s when we spotted the spur trail leading up to the old miner’s cabin we’d seen earlier. Of course, we had to explore.

The cabin was barely standing—just a roughly framed, no frill’s structure with rusted relics, and a view that must have kept the miners going through long days and colder nights. Standing there, you could almost picture it: men with lanterns and shovels, trading comfort for a shot at fortune high above town.

After half an hour of wandering through the ruins, we rejoined the trail and began our descent back to Alice—muddy boots, tired legs, and that satisfied feeling you only get after a day like this.

Parking, Access & Practical Tips

• Trailhead: Signed lot for the Portland/Chief Ouray access near the Box Canyon area, just south of town.
• Start Direction: Counter-clockwise (Portland → Chief Ouray) gives the best flow.
• Poles & Traction: Highly recommended for the steep and dusty sections.
• Weather: Afternoon storms build fast; mornings are safest.
• Water: Carry at least 2–3 liters; small seasonal flow near the waterfall.
• Wildlife: Occasional deer and marmots near the upper ridgeline.
• Best Time to Go: Late June–October. September brings golden aspens around Ouray.

Camping Near the Trailhead

If you’re traveling by van or RV, the Amphitheater Campground is an ideal place to stay. It’s a National Forest site just above Ouray—quiet, shaded, and less than half a mile from the Portland Trail & Chief Ouray Loop trailhead.

Sites are available by reservation during summer on Recreation.gov, with some first-come, first-served availability in spring and fall. Expect tight turns for larger rigs, but camper vans fit easily. Each site includes a picnic table, fire ring, and beautiful views of the surrounding mountains.

Even if you’re not camping there, the road leading to Amphitheater Campground makes it easy to locate the trailhead parking area below.

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