Double Arch and Courthouse Rock Loop: Red River Gorge, Kentucky

Low clouds hung in the valleys when Gail and I started the Double Arch, Courthouse Rock, and Auxier Ridge Loop in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge. It was about 8 a.m. on a pleasant October day, and the leaves were just beginning to turn.

Red River Gorge was one of the stops we picked before leaving home on our way to Washington, D.C. We moved a little faster than usual on this trip through Kentucky and Virginia. Two nights was the longest we stayed anywhere, but the gorge gave us a good reason to slow down.

We hiked the loop counterclockwise, reaching Courthouse Rock before Double Arch. From a rock ledge along Auxier Ridge, we could just make out Double Arch across the gorge through the fog.

Getting to the Auxier Ridge Trailhead

From KY 15 near Stanton, Kentucky, turn onto Tunnel Ridge Road and follow it to the Auxier Ridge Trailhead at the end. The gravel road was generally well maintained when we drove it, with a few potholes and stretches of washboard. It was narrow enough that when we met an oncoming vehicle, one of us had to pull over to let the other pass.

Alice, our Sprinter camper van, is about 10 feet tall and has roughly the same ground clearance as a car. On roads like this, I take my time. A few low branches made me steer around them, but the drive was easy at a slow pace.

The parking lot was bigger than I expected. When we pulled in around 8 a.m. on a Monday, there were about 10 cars and plenty of room for Alice. By my estimate, the lot could have held three or four times that many vehicles.

Hiking the Loop Counterclockwise

Auxier Ridge and Our First Look at Double Arch

Gail and I were happy just to be outside that morning. We walked at an easy pace, talking as we went. This was one of our first hikes with our new Osprey daypacks. I carried the Stratos 24, and Gail wore the Sportlite Hydraulics 20. I couldn’t tell you how long it took us to reach the first rock ledge. It felt like no time at all, but once we got there, we knew it was time to stop and soak it in.

There were several places to look out over the gorge, and I wanted to find the best one. Gail knows how I am around cliffs. If there’s a grand view and a deep valley below it, I’m usually the one who wants to get a little closer to the edge than she’d like.

In the woods, it had felt like we had the trail to ourselves. Out on the ridge, we could see other hikers stopping at different spots along the rock. One man was sitting by himself, drinking coffee from a thermos. I asked if he minded me taking a few pictures of the fall landscape. With a smile, he told me to take as many as I wanted.

As we talked, I learned he lived nearby and came out to that ledge often. To him, it was his favorite place in the world. Standing there with the clouds hanging low over the gorge and the leaves just starting to turn, I could see why.

He pointed out the rock formations one by one, including Courthouse Rock. Then he showed us where to look for Double Arch across the gorge. “If you stay on the loop trail, you will eventually get there,” he said. It looked so far away that I had a hard time picturing how we’d get there on foot.

Down the Stairs to Courthouse Rock

We continued along the ridge toward Courthouse Rock. We passed a few more hikers, but I spent most of that stretch looking for the next picture. The leaves hadn’t reached peak color, and low clouds still hung over the valley. It was so quiet up there that it almost felt reverent.

The wooden stairs had a landing with one of the best views of Courthouse Rock. I didn’t count the steps, but going counterclockwise meant we were walking down them. The trail below the stairs was steeper and a little muddy, though we got through it without much trouble.

At the base of Courthouse Rock, Gail and I looked for a way up. From where we stood, we couldn’t see a route either of us felt comfortable trying, so we kept going.

Through the Gorge and Up to Double Arch

From Courthouse Rock, we headed downhill into the woods. It felt like we had the trail to ourselves again. At the bottom of the gorge, the trail leveled out and we crossed a stream on a log laid across it. There was some water flowing that day, but the stream was tame.

The dirt trail climbed steadily up the other side of the gorge. The grade was moderate, and we had little mud or trouble with bugs in this stretch. About halfway up, we stopped to split up the climb with a protein bar break. We were hiking slower than usual that morning. Neither of us felt any need to make time.

When the trail leveled off, we could hear voices somewhere ahead of us or above us. I looked up, and there it was. The arch that had looked so far away from Auxier Ridge was now directly overhead. The trail curved back uphill in a horseshoe for the final push to Double Arch.

There were about ten people there when we arrived. As they started to clear out, Gail and I found a place to sit and eat lunch. That was when I realized how much the weather had changed while we were in the woods. The fog had lifted, the sky was bright blue with a few thin clouds, and sunlight was catching the fall leaves across the gorge.

I pulled out my binoculars for another look at Courthouse Rock. Earlier, Gail and I had stood at its base wondering how anyone got up there. Now I could see two people and a tent on top.

After lunch, we found a path up to the top of Double Arch. We walked around up there for a while, taking in a different view of the valley before heading back.

The Walk Back to the Trailhead

From Double Arch, we had a steady, easy climb before the trail opened onto a wide gravel road. We followed it the rest of the way to the parking lot. After taking our time at the arch, it was a simple walk back to Alice.

How Hard Is the Double Arch and Courthouse Rock Loop?

Gail and I rated this hike moderate. After 6.6 miles, we were tired when we got back to Alice, but we still felt strong. The elevation gain felt manageable at our pace. If you’re comfortable hiking that distance on uneven ground, with some stairs and a steady climb, I think you’ll find the loop manageable too.

We picked counterclockwise by chance, but it’s the direction I’d choose again for the full loop. The hike along Auxier Ridge to Courthouse Rock was fairly easy for us, and I’d rather walk down those wooden stairs than climb them. Either way, you’ll descend into the gorge and climb back out.

We finished in 3 hours and 50 minutes, including lunch at Double Arch. We took our time, so I’d set aside about four hours if you want to stop for photos and enjoy lunch at the arch like we did.

Where We Camped Near Red River Gorge

Gail and I parked Alice at Whittleton Campground in Natural Bridge State Resort Park near Slade, Kentucky. It gave us a base for two hikes on this stop. We spent one outing at Natural Bridge and another hiking the Double Arch and Courthouse Rock loop in Red River Gorge.

Another Hike Nearby: Natural Bridge

Our hike to Natural Bridge was about three miles and included the Rock Garden Trail and Devil’s Gulch. We hiked in the rain and still enjoyed it. If you’re staying at Whittleton and have time for another hike, this is a shorter outing that takes you to a different sandstone arch.

Final Thoughts

The Double Arch and Courthouse Rock loop was one of our favorite hikes on our Kentucky and Virginia road trip. I’ll remember the man with the thermos pointing out Double Arch through the fog. It looked so far away from Auxier Ridge. A few hours later, Gail and I were eating lunch at the arch in the sunshine, looking back across the gorge at where we’d been.

If I hiked the full loop again, I’d go counterclockwise. I liked getting the ridge views early and walking down the wooden stairs to Courthouse Rock. Give yourself a morning for the loop and leave time to sit at Double Arch.

Have you hiked in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge? Gail and I would love to go back. Tell us in the comments which trail we should hike next.