The Best Hike in Pagosa Springs is Fourmile Falls
Waterfalls, Wonder, and the Weminuche Wilderness
It was our first time visiting Pagosa Springs and the national forests that surround the area. One day, when we hiked the Piedra River Trail, a friendly local tipped us off about the Fourmile Falls hike. He informed us that the hike through the Weminuche Wilderness to the falls was the best trail in the area. Eager for an adventure, we set out early in the morning. The road leading to the trailhead was a smooth, well-maintained gravel road. Winding through stands of pine and aspen, we arrived at the trailhead and found plenty of parking awaiting us. It felt like we had the whole place to ourselves, the perfect start to a day in the woods together.
The Hike to the Falls
As we began the hike, we noticed a scattering of wildflowers along the route. They were subtle but cheerful in the morning light and seemed to welcome us. Most of the first mile descended gently, reminding us we’d be climbing uphill at the end of the out-and-back hike when we are the most tired.
Fourmile Falls Trail: 6.1 miles (Out-and-Back) – 1,194 ft Elevation Gain – Rated 4.7
The path led us through the quiet trees of the tall pines and whispering aspens. The only noticeable sounds were our own footsteps and our unlabored voices. Our conversations are always plentiful when we are fresh. The early start meant we were among the first hikers on the trail, and we encountered only a handful of people throughout the morning.
About a mile in, the trail led to a rushing creek. It was a water crossing that looked, at first glance, simple enough. But the rocks and logs were slick, polished by countless boots and mountain meltwater. The water was 6-8 inches deep, and the current was moving but not hazardous. It was safe enough to wade through, but we didn’t want to remove our boots and socks.
We took our time, plotting a zigzag route across logs thrown in the stream randomly. Arms out for balance, I made it across first and paused on the other side to watch Gail do the same. Her laughter rang out when she nearly slipped and dipped a boot in the icy water. I offered my hand to her, and she took it as she stepped onto solid ground.
The smile on her face signaled relief and pride for getting to the other side without falling in. We took a moment to celebrate our small accomplishment together, then continued on.
The path wound upward from there, shaded by the trees; the temperature was warming. We stopped to take off the hoodies we started the hike with to cool down our bodies. It was a good idea to dress in layers.
Our First Glimpse of the Falls
Passing through open meadows and stands of spruce, we began to hear the sound of running water somewhere ahead. Suddenly, I realized we could see a waterfall through the trees. The falls were about a quarter of a mile straight ahead of us, and we stopped for a moment to look at it from that distance.
As we neared the falls, the climb steepened. The trail rose sharply, causing our legs to burn and hearts to pound. I glanced at Gail and grinned. There’s camaraderie in a shared effort. Together, we knew our out-of-breath moments and body sweat were just a small price to pay for seeing something spectacular. It reminded us of our hike to Bridal Veil Falls in Telluride, another iconic Colorado waterfall worth the effort.
And then, just as the trees thinned and the air seemed to shimmer, we heard it—the thunder of water tumbling from above. Fourmile Falls revealed itself all at once, a ribbon of white plunging over a basalt cliff, nearly 300 feet down into the rocky basin below. We stood there for a while, caught up in the moment, every worry or care washed away by the raw power and beauty before us.
Fourmile Falls Facts and History
Fourmile Falls, as we later read, is one of the tallest and most dramatic waterfalls in the San Juan Mountains. Its name comes from the nearby Fourmile Creek. The area is steeped in history. This land was once the seasonal home of the Ute people, and miners later sought their fortunes in these rugged hills. Standing among the rocks and the water, we could almost feel the untold stories of people visiting this place before us. Powerful waterfalls have a spiritual essence about them, and this one was no different. Similar to Bear Creek Falls in Telluride, Four Mile Falls rewards those who love combining history and scenery.”
The Second Waterfall
Many folks turn around at the first falls, but we pressed on—a little farther, a little higher. The trail was less traveled and increasingly steep. The second waterfall sits tucked back from the trail, quieter, a hidden companion to its thundering sibling.
Nearby, we found a pile of rocks near the creek and settled in for lunch and a much-needed break. Cheese and apples never tasted better.
Conclusion
Looking back, it wasn’t just the falls or the wildflowers or the steep climbs that made the day special. It was the time we spent on the mountain—sometimes in step, sometimes forging ahead or falling behind, but always together. It’s days like these that make us thankful we invested in our Sprinter van, which always provides adventure and layers of memories, one on top of the next. The part-time van life lifestyle works for us.
This wasn’t the only hike we did while in Pagosa Springs, but it was a good one and a trail we will recommend to anyone visiting the area. The local who told us about the waterfall claimed it was the best hike around, and maybe it is. One thing is for sure: we will always reflect on it whenever we think about Pagosa Springs, Colorado.
